Tourists

Today I walked to Wat Pho, a beautiful temple by Thammasat University, and there were so many tourists on the way! I guess it is tourist season. I am always amazed at how many street vendors there are! It was hard to get to Wat Pho because so many tourists were blocking the side walk.

Plastics

Bangkok is a fan of the plastic bag. Something that I'd never seen before coming to Bangkok is that street vendors sell sodas and juices in small plastic bags with a straw. At first I thought it was too impractical because of how flimsy it is, but this method actually proves to be quite handy because people can hold their drink by the handles or hang it from their motorcycle handlebars as they zoom away. At least two plastic bags are used for other foods that are purchased on the street. 10 baht worth of pineapple will be put into a small bag, then that bag will be put into a another small bag with handles. These smaller bags are nearly impossible to reuse, especially because we collect so many each day and they are typically dirty after one use. Larger bags from the grocery store can be reused as trash bags, but my roommate and I hardly generate enough trash for all of the plastic bags we get! I usually carry a couple plastic bags around with me wherever I go so I can avoid getting new bags, but it's inevitable that I'll be handed a few plastic bags each day. I wonder if the city will ever consider alternate solutions for their plastic bag addiction.

711

They are everywhere! There are probably at least two 711s on each street major road in Bangkok, and then of course they are also scattered on random blocks here and there. They end up being a clean, air conditioned refuge from the otherwise humid and dirty streets that are typical in Bangkok. It amazes me how often these chain shops are frequented by the average Thai. Although they appear to be western in all of their corporate glory, a closer look will show that they are unlike any 711 in the states! The shelves are packed with dried squid snacks and whitening beauty products. It is such a tiny shop, but they are taking over. There is a 711 at the foot of my apartment building, so I'm often there to break my 1000 baht bills with a carton of soy milk or a spicy minced pork rice burger. I can't figure out if I'm grateful or annoyed by the plethora of these 711s.

Prostitution, then travel agencies

I read a book about autobiography about a sex worker for my Ethnic Groups of Thailand class. After running away from her home in rural Ubon at 13 to make more money for her family, she became very actively involved in the strip bars and bega selling her body for more money than she could have made any other way without a high school diploma. While working as a prostitute and porn model for many years, she gained a number of traits like depression, pharmaceutical dependencies, financial responsibility for her entire family, and fluency in English. After a series of failed relationships with farang men, she worked hard to get out of the sex industry in order to clean up her life and discover the value of her own life. She mentions that she became a tour guide and a travel agent to make better money, though it hardly compared to the thousands of dollars she made per month selling herself to wealthy foreigners.

Her story probably resonates with thousands of women who join the sex industry each year, and also with those who are lucky enough to get out of it. It makes sense that prostitutes would become travel agents, because they have years of experience selling their personalities to tourists.

Do all that you do well

I helped with bin ta bhaat again this morning. I left my apartment at 5:20 to make it to Wat Mahathat by 5:40, and it was a lovely peaceful walk across the bridge and through Thammasat to get there. There were three of us students helping, and we were overloaded with donations within the first half hour. Each of us farang carrying 5 or 6 meals in plastic bags and following the monk is something you don't see every day! At some point, the monk's nephew came by with a cart to take some of the offerings off our hands so we could continue on our journey. I love starting my mornings this way. Seeing people selfless and thoughtful helps me to be peaceful throughout the rest of the day. When we got back to the wat, I helped separate the food into three categories: rice, meal, dessert. I watched as the monks washed their feet and sat ready to eat their first of two meals for the day.

As a symbolic gesture of offering, the monks nephew removed his shoes and lifted each of the three food trays before the monks began to eat. They recited a chant before starting as part of their morning ritual, and they also ended the meal with a chant. I don't quite know what to do with myself during this time, so I watched observantly and responded to their questions and comments to the best of my ability, since women are only to speak to monks when they are spoken to. They are both very friendly, but only one can speak English. After they finished their meal, I ate with my friend and we continued to talk with the monk.

My friend, who is somewhat of an intern to the monk, was rolling up an umbrella that was used to block sun from this face as he ate. As he rolled it up and was ready to buckle the strap around to keep it in place, the monk assured him that his job was too sloppy. He then showed him how to properly roll it up by starting from the top and carefully folding the umbrella around the supporting stick all the way until the bottom. It sure looked a lot nicer, but I giggled because the situation seemed overly complicated. After all, it was just an umbrella. The monk then proceeded to explain that people are like water. It is natural for water to move downhill due to gravity, and water can only move uphill with a conscious effort. He said that in life, we must strive to move uphill always, in everything that we do.

Snakes

I am fascinated Thailand's overall interest in and dependence on snakes! A snake lover myself, I couldn't be happier. I think it's so cool that snakes are appreciated for the unique properties in their venom that can help create a plethora of vaccines. Drink snake blood is also thought to aid in sexual health, and snakefish heads are a fairly common item on Thai menus. The Queen Saovabha Memorial Institute is a handy educational resource near Bangkok, where I've yet to go but plan to as soon as I can find an open weekend. At the snake farm there, people can learn how to safely handle snakes and be educated about venom extraction. The institute also houses the Department of Animal Diagnosis and Investigation, Immunization and Travel Clinic, Animal Bite and Rabies Immunization Clinic, and an Animal Toxin Clinic: http://www.saovabha.com/en/default.asp

Eat now, pay later

In situations here, such as laundry and eating, stores will prefer that you pay after they have provided the service. I am more than okay with this philosophy because it means I get to enjoy my expenditure before even paying for it, or even thinking about grabbing my wallet. However, sometimes I forget to pay for things because I'm so used to paying at the beginning! Today, for instance, I ate delicious pad see ew moo with Liza from a woman downstairs in our apartment complex. It was delicious, and we walked away afterward eem maak (very full). After a couple minutes I remembered that we hadn't paid, so we ran back to pay the 25 baht as necessary. Of course, she was very Thai in her mai ben rai (it's nothing) attitude, but what if Liza and I had completely forgotten? Do people forget often? Perhaps Thais have just been programmed differently so they always remember to pay after a meal. I've even forgotten to pay for a Thai tea once, but I went back a few hours later to pay. Keeluum farang (forgetful foreigner).

Walking With Monks

This morning I followed two monks from Wat Mahathat on their collection of food offerings. It was quite enlightening, as I didn't know where all of that food went before. Apparently, monks take the food back to their wat (temple), where they eat two meals a day, or sometimes one meal, which are eaten before noon. The remaining food (which there was plenty of this morning) is then available for the homeless, or people like us who accompany monks on their morning ritual. It was a beautiful experience to see people embrace Buddhism at such a normal, day-to-day level. As the people handed the monks their offering, I wai-ed the monks as a sign of respect. The monks then gave a brief prayer, which I thought sounded like a rap with a cool baseline, and then the person kneeled down for about 15 seconds in prayer. I'm not really sure who or what they are praying to since Buddhism does not give a clear definition of "God", but it was definitely a spiritual moment. I hope to do this again soon!

Bamboo

It's in everything! Houses and buildings are made of bamboo, because it is pretty abundant and turns out to be quite strong. Varying types of bamboo are stronger or taller, so one can get pretty creative with what they choose to design. I've always imagined bamboo to be pretty flimsy compared to other woods, but apparently it can create a strong structure along with a really beautiful, authentic Thai design. In my Art and Architecture class, we learned that bamboo is used cool roof structures and gates.  One of my favorite foods here is sticky rice inside of a bamboo shoot, and I'm also a big fan of bamboo in my noodle soups. It grows so well, so I'd like to plant some (in a contained area so it doesn't take over) when I get back home.

Meal with a monk

Charles took me to eat lunch with a monk at Wat Mahathat, whom he calls his ajaan, or teacher. It was really interesting to see all of the donation foods he collected today and I was honored that he shared with me and some other Thammasat students. He is a very nice man who taught meditation at a university in Arizona once upon a time. I hope to follow him on his walk tomorrow morning to collect food. I'll have to get up pretty early! I'm not sure what is appropriate for me to wear yet, or what exactly I will do as I accompany him.

Thai whiskey! Weeeeeeee...

Hong Thong and Sang Som are the cheapest that I've found in Thailand, and for good reason. I find them pretty repulsive, but they seem to be a favorite among many Thai people for what I assume is their ability to get you drunk at a fairly low cost. Buckets are a very popular way of drinking on islands and in very touristy areas, but the typical Thai will just drink their whiskey straight. No, thanks!

Travel agencies

I think it's pretty safe to say that Thai people want to make as much money as possible off tourists, and travel agents are no different. I booked a trip for 17 people to get to and from Koh Tao this past weekend for scuba certification, and quite a few of the accommodations we were promised were not actually part of the package! The absence of included food and free rooms for our 2 friends were the main letdowns, which  meant that we were on a much tighter budget than expected. We were told that we were given a discount because of our large size, but it ends up that the travel agency never even contacted the resorts that we had in mind, since they would not be able to offer the all-inclusive trip that we were interested in finding a discount for. It was a frustrating experience to find out the deliberate miscommunication once we had arrived, because it was too late at that point to make changes. In the future, I will just book my own travel.

Koh Tao!

Koh Tao is quite the tourist paradise because it offers scuba certification at an average price of about $280, including a resort to stay at for the 4 day process. The sites are pretty spectacular, but apparently there used to be loads of turtles (hence the island's name Tao, which means turtle). I am amazed at how many PADI certification resorts exist there, and how dependent the island's economy is on the tourists. The Thais understand that they can really cash out by offering a variety of adventure, entertainment, tastes, and knick-knacks. Kayaks, snorkels, motorbikes, food, clubs, tattoos, massage, clothing, and drinks are ways that tourists can spend a lot of money in a short amount of time. It amazes me how inexpensive things were in general compared to US prices, but I have become so accustomed to spending less money that the inflated prices on the island were a shock to me.

Thai TV

Most English channels show sappy romantic movies or cheesy action films. Discover Channel is worth watching, but that's about it, which is fine because I don't want to watch TV anyway! I've attempted to watch Thai channels to improve my Thai, but it's even worse than the below average quality of the English channels. The average Thai TV episode in a nutshell: couple fights, it is raining, girl starts crying, girl runs away, girl waits by the phone, boy talks to new girl, old girl and new girl get angry at each other and yell. I can't be sure how it ends since I've never watched an entire episode.

Beach vendors

Mai suu, kha! If I said "No buy" in Thai, then beach vendors would keep on their path walking along the sand selling pineapples, corn, tapestries, dresses, and bracelets. I was amazed at how abundant the beach vendors were on Sairee Beach on the island of Koh Tao. Often, they were more persistent than I've experienced vendors in Thailand so far, which is probably why I broke down and bought a dress from one man. I even utilized my bargaining skills!

Boyfriend? Girlfriend?

Today my Thai professor asked if I miss anyone back home. I replied kidthung puan, kidthung fee, or I miss friends and my boyfriend. She laughed and looked very embarrassed, then explained that sharing any information about partners is not appropriate in Thailand, except with very close friends. This is quite different from the US, where having a girlfriend or boyfriend is not a taboo subject. I'll make sure to be more careful so as not to embarrass anyone again!

Yellow, green, pink, blue...

Some days, many Thai people will wear polo shirts of the same color. I don't understand why, except that I know certain colors denote support for the royal family. I also heard that the King was once photographed exercising in a pink collared shirt, which is why most people wear one while they are working out at the Rama VIII park I like to run at. I've also heard that days of the week are associated with colors, though I haven't been able to correlate certain days with specific colors.

Beauty in the Eyes of the Thais

There are massage & beauty parlors everywhere in Bangkok. Services like waxing, facials, mani+pedi are about one third of the price of the same in the US. Farang women certainly spend a lot of time in such beauty places, but in general, Thai women are very particular about their appearance and take a lot of time to make themselves look a certain way. I've noticed that women will pull out a compact mirror any chance they can get to look at themselves to reapply makeup and fix stray hairs as necessary.

Karaoke!!!!!!!!!!!

It's quite popular here, but not for the reasons you'd think. I'm pretty sure most karaoke bars are also brothels. Also, I find it interesting that singing your heart out is so common in a country where vocalizing your opinions is not tolerated well.

Pay nay? (where are you going?)

Taxi drivers. I'm pretty sure any person can become one in Bangkok, because rarely does a cab driver know how to find where I live! I've got the pronunciation down (it took about 6 weeks to get there...): Phra Pinkaaaaoo, so that's no excuse. Honestly, I feel like hardly anyone knows how to navigate this massive city! Isn't that their job??

(Polluted) Venice of the East

King Rama I founded Bangkok strategically on the Chao Praya River to allow for easy trade and transport through the canals that criss cross the city, so it is naturally referred to as a Venice-like city. The average Bangkok resident is not dependent on the waterways as they once may have been because of cars and buses, but tourists get a kick out of a 200 baht ferry ride to see houses on stilts, floating markets, and mangrove trees. The main Chao Praya stretch supports cargo barges and a widely used ferry system, which is probably why the water is so polluted. On the ferry to school each morning, it is not uncommon for me to see a Thai toss their cigarette into the water. Trash litters most canals as street vendors toss garbage onto nearby banks. It's a shame that people here generally do not express concern for the state of the Chao Praya. Perhaps they think it is beyond repair.

Bananas

Bananas have always been a favorite fruit of mine, but they are even more amazing in Thailand! I can eat a banana here in pretty much any form, and all for an affordable price sold conveniently by a nearby street vendor. Folded inside moist sticky rice, fried in palm oil, baked in the peel, or my favorite: sliced, skewered, and topped with a sugary coconut syrup (known as kluay chaek, or "Indian banana"). I am so impressed by all of the ways that Thais serve fruit here, especially bananas that come in all shapes and sizes. I have learned that many of the small "bananas" I've come to enjoy so much are actually plantains, which are like bananas but a bit starchier. Again, thank you Thailand for broadening my sense of taste! I definitely want to learn how to make all of these delicious things for when I go home.

Yes is yes, no?

Sometimes when I am asking a simple "yes/no" question of a Thai person who clearly speaks English, or I am asking a question in Thai to a person who clearly speaks Thai, they answer with "yes" or "chai" even though I am positive that they mean to say "no". I am often given a nod of agreement when I am certain they should be shaking their head. This took me time to understand, and I ended up with a few unfortanate purchases in or overly confusing taxi rides due to this miscommunication. I wonder if Thai people are taught that to agree is easier and more acceptable than to outwardly disagree or say "no". I must continue to get used to this.

Some like it spicy!

Before I came to Thailand, I was tolerant of spicy foods and even enjoyed the occasional spicy dish. Now that I have been exposed to "ahaan Thai pet maak" (very spicy Thai food) every day for 6 weeks, I find that I actually crave the spice. When I am served a "mai pet" meal (not spicy), I find myself reaching for the chili oyster sauce. This simple condiment has become a favorite of mine, and I am determined to master it's creation before I head home to the US, the land of bland. Is it the sweating I enjoy? The prickling on my lips that can't be undone with any amount of ice water? I wonder how and why Thailand has adopted such spicy foods. Is it because chilies grow exceptionally well in tropical weather? Did ancient Thai traditional medicine practitioners discover health benefits related to spicy foods? Whatever the reason, I'm stoked to be broadening my taste buds with every spicy chili! Aroi maak (very tasty)!

Taking it slow

I am accustommed to walking at a fairly quick pace, or what I have always thought was normal until I came here. I am trying to get used to how most Thai people take their time when getting somewhere on the sidewalk so I can avoid feeling obtrusive as I try to pass a group of people. I've concluded a few reasons why I think Thai people walk slower than what I am used to: the heat is overwhelming and there is a sense that whatever needs to get done will happen, so why rush? I like that mentality, so I will really work on adopting it while I am here. Perhaps I'll even be able to carry it on when I return to California.

Bikinis

The pool at Pulsawat Resort this weekend was a scene out of a summer teenage drama: 40 plus students splashing, jumping, swimming, drinking, taking pictures, chicken fighting, dancing, singing, etc. The only difference I could tell was that although most girls wore the typical two piece bikini, the Thai girls wore clothing. There was no different in the apparel of Thai and foreign boys, as both wore swim trunks. In American culture (as well as most European cultures, as some girls were German and French) and some Asian cultures (a few girls were Chinese and Japanese), I think it is more acceptable to expose female bodies in a bikini. I asked the Thai girls why they wore clothes and what they thought of bikinis and I found that since this was a school sponsored trip (Thammasat's law school), they thought did not feel comfortable to wear bikinis. According to them, most Thai girls feel this way, but had it been a vacation with friends that had nothing to do with school, they would have worn more revealing swimsuits.

It tastes fishy

I was at Pranburi Beach for the past three days (which is why I haven't written). It was an extremely beautiful experience, and delicious! We stayed at a resort which provided buffet-style meals full of prawns, squid, fish, along with the usual rice and spices. I'm continually in awe of the flavors I find in meals here. Items are super sweet, as there is condensed milk in most drinks and sugar is a staple condiment on most restaurant tables. They can also be painfullly spicy, with whole chiles used as flavoring in some dishes. Salt is used heavily and even is used as a crust on many meats. I'm especially a fan of the use of seafood in Thailand, and it was so fresh at the beach this past weekend because fishermen go out each night to catch squid and other delicious things. Thais definitely know how to prepare sea food to my tastes, even if it is fried most of the time.

Begging

There are a lot of beggars in Bangkok. They could be deformed, burned, old, young, or just plain broken in some way, and they all seem to make enough money to stay on the streets. I see many beggars get fed by local vendors, and most people drop a few baht into their collection cups as they make their way past. The general attitude that I've noticed toward beggars is more sympathetic in Thailand than in most US cities I've spent time in. I wonder if there are so many homeless people because the government just doesn't provide care for homeless and impoverished.

Uniform

Students in Thailand are required to wear a uniform that varies depending on the school and level of education. I have enjoyed wearing the uniform so far, though it is not required for the Thai Studies program I am in. From what I hear, most Thai students at Thammasat University aren't so fond of the clothing requirement, I think because they have been wearing it during their entire school career. I'm not entirely sure why the uniform is so important in this country, but I do feel like it creates a sense of scholarship. I don't think about what to wear in the morning, and I don't compare my uniform with those of my peers. I can't imagine such a policy in the US, as I'm sure students would maintain their right to express their individuality through clothing. Based on my experiences with Thai culture thus far, I think blending in is more acceptable because it shows a sense of unity.

Wat Pho

This morning I visited Wat Pho, originally named Wat Phra Chetuphon Wimonmangkhalaram Ratchaworamahawiharn, which is Bangkok's oldest temple. It also houses original inscriptions of traditional Thai medicine and massage, along with monks that perform massage for a reasonable fee. I shall definitely go back before I leave Bangkok! Since we are students and don the standard university student uniform (white button-up and black skirt), we get in for free even though we are mostly farang (foreigners). Most non-Thai people are expected to pay 50 baht upon entry, and then are encouraged to pay for a tour guide starting at 200 baht. There were a lot Thai and non-Thai people inside the temple grounds, especially near the Reclining Buddha. Young students were dropping 25 satang pieces (about a penny) into bowls that line the inside of the temple. I wasn't sure what to think of how the temple to encourages children to pay as a sign of respect, since they are also making money off of tourists and souvenirs. I am interested in the symbolism behind their donations, as spending money seems to coincide with faith in many ways here. I guess most religious organizations expect some sort of tithing in order to keep structures well staffed and renovated as necessary.

Mmmm, smells like fried maggots and heart disease!

I've lived in my 3J apartment for 32 days and still haven't gotten over the aromas that waft into my 2nd story bathroom window. Fried food, specifically. For the most part, meat on the street is fried heavily, so it tastes absolutely great but promises high cholesterol and fat. Fried chicken, pork, beef, fish, shrimp, intestines, eggs, noodles, rice, maggots, grasshoppers, frogs, crabs, roaches, scorpions, bananas, squash... and countless items I haven't learned yet. At home in the US, I try to steer away from fried food in any form (except for the occasional donut). Here, it's become a staple in my diet. Yes, I even eat maggots! Although I haven't seen this dietary change manifest itself in excess weight (yet, likely due to smaller portions and constant sweating), I can imagine the blood pressure in my arteries is less forgiving! I shall eat less fried food, though I will continue to enjoy the smell of it in my bathroom.